Hiroshima (広島)
A beautiful, bright city, it’s kind of hard to believe Hiroshima is best known as being the target of the first atomic bomb attack on August 6 1945.The city has a different atmosphere to many other similar Japanese cities: streets are wide with plenty of greenery dotted along the way and quaint trams ramble along the tracks which dissect the city streets.
In the centre of the city lies Hiroshima Peace Park: a big, beautiful green space lodged between stretches of river, built to commemorate and memorialise the bomb blast. There is an air of positivity and warmth in the city and as tourists, from both Japan and abroad, flock to pay tribute to the events which affected the city and the world, Hiroshima and its citizens advocate peace throughout the world.
Things to see and do
Hiroshima Peace Park (平和記念公園 Heiwa Kinen Koen)
The area where the Peace Park now stands was once the political and commercial hub of Hiroshima until it was razed by the world’s first atomic bomb attack. A few years after the blast, the city decided not to rebuild on the area, instead creating a vast green space in the middle of the city where the world could come to remember. The space is filled with monuments, trees, gardens and often troops of Japanese school kids, ranging from elementary to university aged, on field trips. If you’re lucky they might even ask to interview you as English practice!Peace Memorial Museum (平和記念資料館 Heiwa Kinen Shiryōkan)
The Peace Memorial Museum in Hiroshima is one of those experiences which challenges your preconceived ideas and changes your outlook. I had to physically sit down and take a break after going through the museum, as emotionally, it’s pretty full on.The museum concentrates on the events of August 6, the day of the blast, and focuses on the human side of the event. There are displays of personal items from people caught in the bombing and the stories are raw, emotional and honest. Nothing is sugar-coated, and there isn’t really any blaming or propaganda for either side of the conflict. The museum and its displays take a neutral stance, but one which constantly encourages the world to promote peace and abandon nuclear weaponry.
A-Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム Genbaku Dōmu)
The A-Bomb Dome is an iconic image of Hiroshima and was originally the Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall before the bombings. Now, the building is a twisted skeleton of metal and stone, preserved as it was immediately after the bombings. Rubble has collected around the base of the building, still in place where it fell following the blast. The dome itself, is intricate, and stands out in stark contrast to the sky above. The site was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 and stands as a reminder of the devastation that followed the blast.
Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims
Placed to form a perfect line between the Peace flame and the A-bomb Dome, the Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims is a beautifully curved memorial for those who died due to the bombing – both from the blast itself, or from radiation exposure. Inside a stone chest at the centre of the arch is a register of names of all the bombing victims, and every year it is updated on the anniversary of the bombings. The Cenotaph is the focus of the yearly memorial service, attended by families, dignitaries and tourists from across the globe.
Children’s Peace Monument (原爆の子の像 Genbaku no ko no zō)
This monument was built because of a successful fundraising campaign to build a memorial for Sasaki Sadako and all of the children who died from the effects of the blast. Sasaki Sadako is a famous figure in the story of the Hiroshima bombings, as at only 12 years old she died from Leukemia caused by exposure to the atomic bomb. While sick, she began folding paper cranes (折鶴orizuru) aiming to fold one thousand (千羽鶴 senbazuru) in hopes that her health would improve. Now people come from all over Japan and the world to lay paper cranes at the monument.
The Hypocentre
A block away from the A-bomb dome, down a normal residential street, stands a memorial to mark the location of the hypocentre of the bomb blast. As with most memorials in the park, it is draped in colourful paper cranes and offerings to the victims of the A-bomb. It’s easily missed, but definitely worth the short detour.
Events
6 August: The Peace Memorial Ceremony (広島平和記念式典 Heiwa Kinen Shikiten)
On the anniversary of the bombing, a memorial ceremony is held in the Peace Park. A moment of silence is held at 8.15 AM, the time of the bomb blast and the ceremony held in front of the Cenotaph is attended by dignitaries and people from all over the world. There are other ceremonies held throughout the park during the day, and the atmosphere is reflective, positive and very warm and welcoming. At night there is another ceremony where lanterns are floated down the river (灯籠流しtoro nagashi) in memory of those who died in the blast.
Things to eat and buy
Hiroshimayaki
While it is known as either Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki or Hiroshimayaki, Hiroshima’s own version of this popular Japanese food has a few major differences to its Osakan relative. Firstly it uses more cabbage and often uses soba noodles in the dish. As to the actual cooking method, rather than all the ingredients being mixed together and then placed on the grill as with okonomiyaki, Hiroshimayaki takes a more layered approach. It’s still freaking delicious!
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